View and Download Edelbrock Performer RPM 351-W Ford V8 installation instructions online. Camshaft/Lifters/Lube Kit 351-W Ford V8. Performer RPM 351-W Ford V8 Automobile Parts pdf manual download. Also for: Performer rpm 7182. ©2010 Edelbrock LLC Rev. 7/10 - AJ/mc Page 1 of 9 Part #2122 Brochure #63-0298 PERFORMER-PLUS Camshaft/Lifters/Lube Kit Part #2122 For 289-302 c.i.d. Ford V8 (Not for Boss 302 or 1985.
I have a 68 mustang stock 289, auto tranny, came with 2v. I installed an edelbrock 2121 performer 289 intake with an edelbrock 1403 500 cfm 4v. I used all edelbrock recommended parts, gaskets, bolts, sealers, gascasench etc. put ultra black rtv around water ports on both sides of gaskets. gaskets are not slipping because gascacinch holds very well. also used rtv across ends instead of gaskets there as reccomended by edelbrock. no leaks on ends.
I have installed the intake 4 times now and I still have water getting into my oil. A couple of these changes were because mechanics torque wrench was bad and one time we broke a bolt and next time stripped threads in one hole of the heads all due to bad torque wrench. The third time we got water leaking into oil so had to do for the forth time. I did radiator leak test, set at 15 lbs. and it leaks down a couple pounds slowly after maybe 20 minutes with engine off. I always tightened using edelbrock suggested sequence. this last time i tightened by hand instead of torque wrench. and retightened a quarter
turn after a few hours.
the first install we used regular bolts and snapped one due to bad wrench. the second time i used edelbrock bolts and it leaked water into oil so took it off again and in taking out the edel bolts found one bolt had loosened up because it was shorter than the other 11. this was defective bolt set from edel. the bolt caught just enough to torque down but not enough threads
to hold under pressure and heat. then when we reinstalled we stripped threads from head due again to bad torque wrench. pulled intake back off fixed problem and reinstalled using hand tightening and it still leaks water into oil
i would not think it likely that i have cracked head or bad head gasket since i had no problems before the changeout from the 2v to 4v.
I’m paranoid after all the problems now. i have ordered a new intake and will replace one more time using brand new torque wrench. but would like to make sure it works this time so does anyone have any thoughts on what i can do to insure success? if it does not work this time i will have to put old 2v back on or sell the car as is and loose a ton of money on it.
All thoughts and suggestions are appreciated.
I have installed the intake 4 times now and I still have water getting into my oil. A couple of these changes were because mechanics torque wrench was bad and one time we broke a bolt and next time stripped threads in one hole of the heads all due to bad torque wrench. The third time we got water leaking into oil so had to do for the forth time. I did radiator leak test, set at 15 lbs. and it leaks down a couple pounds slowly after maybe 20 minutes with engine off. I always tightened using edelbrock suggested sequence. this last time i tightened by hand instead of torque wrench. and retightened a quarter
turn after a few hours.
the first install we used regular bolts and snapped one due to bad wrench. the second time i used edelbrock bolts and it leaked water into oil so took it off again and in taking out the edel bolts found one bolt had loosened up because it was shorter than the other 11. this was defective bolt set from edel. the bolt caught just enough to torque down but not enough threads
to hold under pressure and heat. then when we reinstalled we stripped threads from head due again to bad torque wrench. pulled intake back off fixed problem and reinstalled using hand tightening and it still leaks water into oil
i would not think it likely that i have cracked head or bad head gasket since i had no problems before the changeout from the 2v to 4v.
I’m paranoid after all the problems now. i have ordered a new intake and will replace one more time using brand new torque wrench. but would like to make sure it works this time so does anyone have any thoughts on what i can do to insure success? if it does not work this time i will have to put old 2v back on or sell the car as is and loose a ton of money on it.
All thoughts and suggestions are appreciated.
Posted 7/6/2015 by Landan Durham
Install an intake manifold onto your 302 or 351 based engine with this helpful installation guide.
https://lmr.com/products/how-to-install-mustang-302-351-intake-manifold
FOLLOW:mustang,79 93 mustang,engine,sn95,fox body,fox body mustang,intake,air fuel
Intake Manifold Install
Intake ManifoldsTopping off any custom engine build boils down to your intake manifold. We offer quality intake manifolds from industry leading brands such as SVE, Trick Flow, Edelbrock, and Holley. All of which feature different power band performances, custom finishes, and different throttle body openings to match the expectations of your engine build.
When bolting on your new intake manifold, hard ware is obviously needed. We carry a complete upper and lower gasket kit for small or large port heads. Depending on your intake manifold combo, most brands require specific upper to lower intake manifold gaskets; which are usually included with any intake manifold kit.
Sometimes an upper to lower intake manifold spacer is required when running taller valve covers for proper clearance. Of course, that raises the upper intake which could then cause hood clearance issues as well. So it is extremely important to keep all of that info in mind when selecting an intake manifold for your build.
Lower Intake Manifold HardwareAny intake manifold you do decide to go with can be bolted down with our EXCLUSIVE lower intake bolt kit. These bolts are made by ARP exclusively for us here at Late Model Restoration. They are a direct replacement for OEM intake bolts, will feature a black oxide coating for longevity, and will have the stud and nut for use with factory 86-95 heater tubes.
Required Tools
- 3/8' Drive Torque Wrench
- Socket Set
- Cutters
- Black RTV Silicone
- Engine Oil
- Blue Loctite
Removal Procedure
Step 1:
Disconnect your battery's negative cable and drain the cooling system.Step 2:
Disconnect any electrical connections, control cables, throttle body linkages, vacuum hoses, ventilation tubes, and coolant hoses at throttle body and intake manifold. There is no need to disconnect fuel lines unless it is absolutely necessary.Step 3:
Remove distributor cap and spark plug wires together. Place a reference mark on distributor for rotor alignment during reassembly. Remove retaining bolt and remove the distributor.Step 4:
Remove the cover plates, retaining bolts, upper intake manifold and manifold gasket.Step 5:
Remove accessory brackets attached to lower intake manifold. Remove heater tube assembly from lower manifold. Remove retaining bolts, lower manifold, gaskets, and all seals.Installation Procedure
-Before you begin, it is in your best interest to have a clean working area and to clean all of your parts prior to install.-Be sure you’re cylinder head and valve train is assembled.
Step 1:
Start by aligning your cylinder head to lower intake gasket with the tab on the head gasket.Step 2:
If you notice, when aligned with the tab, the gasket does not align with the intake ports on the cylinder head.Step 3:
If this happens, simply trim the tabs and apply a small amount of gasket adhesive or RTV to the cylinder heads.Step 4:
Apply some RTV at the corners where the cylinder head and engine block meet.Step 5:
Align the gaskets with the intake and coolant ports, then apply pressure to ensure the gasket adhesive holds the gasket.Step 6:
Run a bead of RTV across the front and rear of the engine block. This bead of RTV will run between the cylinder heads and ideally needs to be about a quarter inch in diameter.Step 7:
Position the lower intake onto the cylinder heads.Step 8:
Before installing the lower intake bolts, apply some oil to the threads and underneath the head of the bolt.Step 9:
Loosely thread all of the lower intake bolts.Step 10:
For you 86-95 guys, be sure and install the stud into the passenger side, second to last bolt hole on the manifold.Step 11:
Starting on the inside and working your way out, torque the bolts in two steps. The first step is 15 ft/lbs and the second is 25 ft/lbs.Step 12:
Position the gasket over the intake ports.Step 13:
Apply blue Loc-Tite to the upper to lower intake manifold studs and finger tighten.Step 14:
Lightly apply engine oil to the threads on the upper to lower intake manifold bolts and finger tighten.Step 15:
Torque the bolts from inside out to 15 ft/lbs.Step 16:
Double and triple check everything.Step 17:
Re-attach accessory brackets attached to lower intake manifold. Re-attach heater tube assembly from lower manifold.Step 18:
Re-attach the cover plates.Step 19:
Re-attach distributor cap and spark plug wires together. Place the distributor back and attach the retaining bolt.Step 20:
Re-connect any electrical connections, control cables, throttle body linkages, vacuum hoses, ventilation tubes, and coolant hoses at throttle body and intake manifold.Step 21:
Connect your battery's negative cable and re fill the cooling system.Fox Body Intake Manifolds
- $644.99
- $802.95
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About the Video
How To Install 302/351 Mustang Intake Manifold (79-95)
Check out our YouTube channel for even more tech tips, installation videos, how-tos, and more. The best place to go for anything Mustang related!
Published on 2015-06-22
In this particular video, we are going to show you the general idea and installation procedures when installing an intake manifold and components onto your 302 or 351 engine.
Topping off any custom engine build boils down to your intake manifold. We offer quality intake manifolds from industry leading brands such as SVE, Trick Flow, Edelbrock, and Holley. All of which feature different power band performances, custom finishes, and different throttle body openings to match the expectations of your engine build.
Any intake manifold you do decide to go with can be bolted down with our EXCLUSIVE lower intake bolt kit. These bolts are made by ARP exclusively for us here at Late Model Restoration. They are a direct replacement for OEM intake bolts, will feature a black oxide coating for longevity, and will have the stud and nut for use with factory 86-95 heater tubes.
Mustang Fitment: 1979 (79), 1980 (80), 1981 (81), 1982 (82), 1983 (83), 1984 (84), 1985 (85), 1986 (86), 1987 (87), 1988 (88), 989 (89), 1990 (90), 1991 (91), 1992 (92), 1993 (93), 1994 (94), 1995 (95) 5.0L/5.8L, 302/351
In this particular video, we are going to show you the general idea and installation procedures when installing an intake manifold and components onto your 302 or 351 engine.
Topping off any custom engine build boils down to your intake manifold. We offer quality intake manifolds from industry leading brands such as SVE, Trick Flow, Edelbrock, and Holley. All of which feature different power band performances, custom finishes, and different throttle body openings to match the expectations of your engine build.
Any intake manifold you do decide to go with can be bolted down with our EXCLUSIVE lower intake bolt kit. These bolts are made by ARP exclusively for us here at Late Model Restoration. They are a direct replacement for OEM intake bolts, will feature a black oxide coating for longevity, and will have the stud and nut for use with factory 86-95 heater tubes.
Mustang Fitment: 1979 (79), 1980 (80), 1981 (81), 1982 (82), 1983 (83), 1984 (84), 1985 (85), 1986 (86), 1987 (87), 1988 (88), 989 (89), 1990 (90), 1991 (91), 1992 (92), 1993 (93), 1994 (94), 1995 (95) 5.0L/5.8L, 302/351